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Albertha Grant founded the restaurant in the early 1980s, and many of her specialties — meaty okra stew, tomato-stained red rice, creamy lima beans, and turkey (a sustaining rice dish available only on Tuesdays) — originate from the culinary traditions of the Gullah, former slaves who established themselves in Lowcountry hamlets and the nearby islands.Grant died in 2007, and her daughters Sharon Grant Coakley, Julie Grant, and Linda Pinckney now own this community polestar.
Some chophouse signifiers carry over — the composed salads, the steak tartare, the insightfully curated wine list — but forget yesteryear’s burgundy booths and mahogany paneling: Erickson went for sunny, corner-bistro elegance.
free hardcore lesbian sex Bertha’s azure-blue building pops against its surroundings, a stretch of stark, coastal flatness in industrial North Charleston.
In Mexico, using food for sex New Orleans’s centuries-old ties to the Caribbean come into modern focus on the menu of Nina Compton, who was born in St. Her goat curry is a one-dish history lesson in the global spice routes, while local black drum is rubbed with tingling jerk seasoning and scorching conch croquettes are quelled with pickled pineapple tartar sauce.
This is all an obvious departure from meunière-bathed Creole cuisine, but this is the NOLA restaurant I find myself most endorsing to friends.
The restaurant butchers whole cows, dry-ages its own steaks, and offers two dozen cuts written on chalkboards.
When the few nightly orders of New York strips and rib-eyes are gone, they’re gone, and diners must explore lesser-known cuts that are as intensely pleasurable and often more affordable.
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The restaurant synthesizes much of what’s relevant about this moment in American dining: an amalgamation of global and regional flavors; a big-city chef making a seismic impact in a smaller town; and an acute awareness of, and reckoning with, complex racial, economic, and cultural histories.
There will never be an immutable answer, and that’s what makes eating across the nation so riveting.
But this annual roadmap — the apex of my work, the result of 32 weeks of travel and over 500 meals in 36 cities — attempts to encapsulate our astonishing food culture at this moment.
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