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The one dish in particular that most left me craving one more taste - and maybe, then, the best dish of the night - was a delicate Maine lobster flan, garnished with pickled cucamelon, a lobe of sea urchin, and a smear of preserved lemon purée.This was just a perfect composition: the creamy flan balanced against the snap of the cucamelon, the sweet briny marine flavors of the lobster and uni balanced by the salty-tart preserved lemon.Once Chef Bachour gets started, it's tough to slow him down, and he had one more dessert course for us.

A thin sheet of pristine tuna - simultaneously meaty and silky tender - was topped with small dice of fresh mango and a ginger gelée along with sprigs of pleasingly snappy salicornia (a/k/a "sea beans").

But the one subtle addition that really made this dish sing for me was the drizzle of guajillo chile infused oil - a bright spark of spice that enhanced everything else.

Food that is delicate, or technical, even artful, can and often is prepared with every bit as much passion and energy as any long-simmered braise or sizzling sauté.

There is no better evidence than the dinner that the crew at the J&G Grill in the St.

The egg was perfectly poached, then coated in a delicate crumb and quickly deep fried, and for an additional bonus, then injected with a vibrant basil infusion.

Nestled over a bed of baby squash in a cabernet gastrique, and crowned with Florida-raised Siberian sturgeon caviar, this brought together the lush richness of the oozy egg, the crunch of the crispy shell, and the saline pop of the caviar, all cut through with the gentle green flavors of the squash, the more assertive basil, and the tangy gastrique - each distinct, yet contributing effectively to the whole.

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In a recent column for the San Francisco Chronicle, restaurant consultant (and former Square One and Chez Panisse chef) Joyce Goldstein bemoans the prevalence of what many pejoratively call "tweezer food." She imagines "an underground team of tiny elves with tweezers, carefully placing tiny little pieces of food in regimented lines across plates all over the country" and rails, "Where is the passion and energy? Attention to detail and passion are not opposites, nor are they even somehow mutually exclusive.

He was working in extremely constrained circumstances there and pulled off some beautiful results - so I was looking forward to seeing what he could do in his own kitchen.

He began the transition to desserts with a take on "Berries and Cream." A cube of a ruby-hued gelée was festooned with various berries, red currants, wisps of berry foam, creamy gel, and a puddle of gelatinous hydrated basil seeds - fresh, light, and really brightly flavored.

The slow-cooked swordfish featured Mediterranean flavors - there were Hammock Hollows tomatoes from upstate Florida, and heirloom green beans - but with some unexpected twists: the broth was cherry and olive, not tomato, and the dark soba-like noodles were vividly flavored with black olive. The family of one of the J&G kitchen crew, Chef Alex, are pork specialists in Oakland - since he was 11 years old, Alex helped them make carnitas and every other bit of the pig too.

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