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But it boasts eight Unesco-listed sites, wildlife including elephants and leopards, picture-postcard beaches, and of course famed tea plantations.
And all are now easier to reach on the island's new network of roads.
A man sitting at his sewing machine looks up and gives us a cheery wave.
Some believe Pinnawala's 80 elephants now serve more as a tourist attraction, and they are indeed an astonishing sight.
Back on the road, we soak up the views which include roadside shrines and trees hung with giant sleeping fruit bats, like dry-cleaning waiting to be collected.
The landscape exudes a kind of primordial fecundity: deep, dense, verdant, vibrant, you can almost hear the plants straining against the soil in their impatience to grow.
After an hour we reach the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, originally opened as a rescue centre for orphaned elephants.
He ran a few steps, covered in flames and chanting slogans against China, before collapsing in front of the mammoth Boudhanath stupa, one of the holiest Buddhist sites in the world, surrounded by prayer wheels and decorated with colourful streams of prayer flags.
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Here we feast on freshly caught crabs the size of small helicopters.
As we drive, the city quickly falls away, replaced by glinting stork-inhabited rice paddies which in turn give way to extravagantly lush hillsides of fig, banana (92 varieties), papaya, coconut, mango and pineapple plantations.
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